You know what sucks? Bodywork. Dents, rust, paint? BAH. You now what’s not too bad? Nuts-and-bolts drivetrain and suspension work. Then again, as I advised you all long ago, starting with a non-runner really hurts the probability your project car will ever amount to anything.
With all that in mind, let’s take a minute to ponder what looks like a perfect skeleton upon which to build a meaty rock crawler. Despite the TJ front clip and YJ tub, its ’65 CJ6 origin mean it’s smog exempt and sports a slightly-more-useful 109″ wheelbase. The body and frame are in perfect shape. It’s fully caged. In contrast to most “build a rockcrawler from it” donor nuclei, the title and registration are squeaky clean.
Atop the $4,000 asking price, you’ll need to add a complete drivetrain and interior at a minimum. Wiring? Fuel tank? Top? Doors? We’re left to wonder. Were this a typical magazine build we’d be looking at a mid-teens to mid-20s pricetag (ignoring the fact they get most of the parts for free).
Personally, I’d skip well past the top few obvious drivetrain choices (LS, 350, 5.0, 4.3, 4.0, 4BT) in favor of something more asinine, like a 2-barrel 390 with a retrofit TBI EFI system. In fact, the whole drivetrain out of an early-70s F250 would do the job nicely. Then again, we could go more lightweight and grab an all-aluminum Buick 215. Honestly, almost anything can make a mid-sized Wrangler(ish) move just fine. How would you complete this in typical Hooniverse stingy-ass fashion?
1965 CJ6 Wrangler hybrid shell for sale – SFBay Craigslist
Is a "Just Add Drivetrain" Jeep a Good Idea?
17 responses to “Is a "Just Add Drivetrain" Jeep a Good Idea?”
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OM617 with portal axles from a unimog.
In honor, naturally, of Chryco’s brief tryst with Benz.-
Ah yes. In many countries Jeep parts are available from Renault, Chrysler, Mercedes Benz and GM dealers.The jilted mistress is a role familiar to the company.
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That’s $2700 more than the 87 YJ 4 cylinder 5 speed that my dad got to use as a golf cart at their lake place. And his was running and driving more or less, with no rust and very few dents. It has a few issues, but could be brought to excellent condition for less than this tub. Here you have no top, no seats, no wheels, etc.
To answer your question: Kia Sportage drive train to really piss off the Jeep fanboys.-
I think the drivetrain to piss off the fanboys would be to use the Compass.
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Jeep CompASS
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If the end goal is 35-40″ tires and hardocre offroading, either works as a valid starting point. You’d just spend money on different things. If nothing else, that cage is a couple grand.
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Straight 6, because AMC. Diesel because TORQUES! Extra complexity because insanity.
Grab a diesel P38 and ditch the snobby British body and slap the powertrain/drivetrain under the Jeep.-
Oh man — that was a BMW diesel, too. How can we make it more interesting?
I know: powerglide. With a 4500rpm stall convertor.-
It was! So much interesting…and evil.
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Rotary. For oodles of rotor-wearing, oil burning untorquiness.
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Can we at least make it a turbo rotary? Then it might actually have a chance of moving the vehicle before it pukes its apex seals.
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How do I click Nice Price?
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GM 3800 V6, FWD.
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Hahahaha…that’s hilarious. There would be much exploding of heads.
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How would one go about registering a vehicle like this? Do most DMV’s (and the like) just pick the VIN of your choice, or do you have to give them the one from the body, the frame, the windshield, the firewall, etc.?
Not trying to be a naysayer, just curious.
Also, how would this info apply to doing a chassis swap? (i.e. slide a 4.0L chassis under my dad’s 2.5L YJ, as the frame is starting to rust on an otherwise mint vehicle)
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I’d buy a International 4000 swather and swap the 258 AMC into this, as well as the transmission and seats (if possible).
Finally, I’d paint it IHC red, and then slapping on the correct decals.
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