The single worst thing about being an only child is the not having someone to blame stuff on.
Last Call indicates the end of Hooniverse’s broadcast day. It’s meant to be an open forum for anyone and anything. Thread jacking is not only accepted, it’s encouraged.
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Last Call: It's a Family Affair Edition
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18 responses to “Last Call: It's a Family Affair Edition”
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My Mother Superior did THIS!
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Nice one-upmanship. 🙂
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Of course she did.
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Pros:
It’s a wagon.
It’s $400 dollars.
It’s in nice shape.
It’s driveable.Cons:
It’s a slushbox.
It has 276 000 km.
It’s FWD.
It’s a Plymouth Reliant.This is a bad idea. I know it is a bad idea. I still want it.
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDgwMA==/z/GokAAOSwjVVVpldB/$_27.JPG
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/edmonton/1987-plymouth-relient/1087540449?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true-
Do it. A friend growing up had a similar one (same color) we called it the War Wagon. it was the roach of cars able to survive anything our 17 year old selves would throw at it. Two years as a Pizza Delivery, feet of snow, driven across fields, fire roads etc.
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Do it! What’s the worst that could happen?
http://hooniverse.info/2013/12/16/hcoty-2013-nominee-the-k-it-forwardnsf-racing-plymouth-reliant-2/-
Eight broken engines, of two different types. That’s the worst that could happen.
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There was an Outsiders Perspective article about Volvo here yesterday that just disappeared. Why?
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I still see it:
https://hooniverse.com/2015/07/15/outsiders-perspective-of-serving-all-masters/
This sounds like a weird tech glitch.
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I need one that says “My daughter did this.” Actually, I need more than one.
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Howdy fellow hoons, I recently acquired about 60 12′ lengths of 1.5″x1.5″ steel tubing, and I am going to build a car chassis with some of them. This is the design I have come up with; it will be transverse rear engined, and will have 1+3 seating (drive from the center like a Mclaren F1). Before I actually build it though, I would like anyone and everyone to comment on things I need to address with my design, changes to be made to the chassis, and a possible engine or trans to put into it. Thanks
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Start from the seating position of the driver, then the position of the mechanical bits and pieces, the engine and transmission and the suspension and steering. Are you going to use an existing engine or transmission or suspension or steering parts like a steering rack or control arms or axles or driveshafts or CV joints or wheel hubs or wheels or brakes or…..?The use of existing parts is very common in low (or even high ) volume production eg Lotus Elans had Triumph Herald steering rack and front uprights,TVRs use SAAB 900 uprights, all Renaults have the same front wheel bearings.Brake calipers and discs and pads are shared across the most disparate model ranges.
No-one designs absolutely everything, at some level you have to bring in and use existing components which you do not design but just attach into your vehicle. You just have to decide what level of componentry you will fit. If you design an engine, will you use liners, or piston rings or pistons, or con-rods or crankshafts from elsewhere, or will you put in an entire engine and transmission assembly? Will you design all the bodywork and fabricate everything or will you use existing glass or even whole panels from elsewhere Eg The Vortex kit car uses the complete side glass assemblies of the Jag XK8 The Ford RS200 Group A rally car used Ford Sierra (Merkur XR4) doors complete with glass and lining and windscreen and wipers.
http://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/1986_Ford_RS200_Evolution_For_Sale_in_USA_Front_resize.jpg
Whatever you do, don’t make the final design ugly, people will laugh at you and your abilities, even if the car works well.The Argyll and the Consulier were both less successful than they could have been if their looks were better
http://www.wallpaperup.com/uploads/wallpapers/2013/12/18/197801/big_thumb_889ca73faf5a896199688574001c6ff5.jpg
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9d/1990_Consulier_GTP-LX%2C_John_Fitch%27s_car_%28fR_low%29.jpg/1024px-1990_Consulier_GTP-LX%2C_John_Fitch%27s_car_%28fR_low%29.jpg
Don’t get caught in the process of thinking, I have these bits, I must use them. Try to be holistic in your approach and start with the end product and work back and forth between where you are. and where you want to be-
Thanks for the reply. I will likely use suspension and steering parts from a fiero, and the engine and Trans will probably be a carburated v6 or 4 cinder attached to a manual transmission. As for the bodywork, I am going to use fiberglass, the windshields and windows will be flat so I can use lexan, and the floorboards will be 1/2″ laminated plywood.
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Good start. CAD is your best, most infuriating friend. You need big design changes to make your frame stronger, stiffer, and lighter. Key concept: Triangulation. Within reason, every open space between tubes should be a triangle.
Obvious exceptions are the windshield and door openings, so you have to make sure that there are good triangular structures surrounding them. In other words, from the front and side view, there should be good full-height triangles even if you remove the horizontal roof beams.
If you are putting a load into one node of a triangle, two different tubes have to either stretch or compress, and twisting has to happen at all three points of the triangle. With a rectangle, only one tube has to stretch or compress, and twisting only has to happen at two points.
Other big points: It looks like you are planning on running a strut to the lower control arm. I strongly suggest moving your downtubes from the roof to sit at the top of the struts, so the load from the spring and shock can continue traveling upward, instead of bending the middle of a span.
Your spine down the middle of the car is not adding any strength right now, and will make packaging very difficult. With proper triangulation, I think it might be possible to get rid of all the interior tubes, leaving only the outside shell. Here are some 5-minute, non-proportional, by no means complete illustrations to get you started.
Side view:
[img width=”500″]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt237/jskitter/hooniverse/Side%20View_zpsbwuz8nsu.png[/img]
Floor tubes:
[img width=”500″]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt237/jskitter/hooniverse/Floor%20Pan%20Tubes_zps55rhy6la.png[/img]
Topmost Tubes:
[img width=”500″]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt237/jskitter/hooniverse/Topmost%20Tubes_zps4fifgvvn.png[/img]-
Thanks for the advice. I had read about triangulation before, but i wasn’t sure how important it was. I was thinking that some sort of spine would help stiffen the chassis quite a bit, but i did not want it to interfere with seating space. I am going to implement some of your ideas in a new cad drawing and post it when I’m done.
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Here are some pictures of the new chassis:
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Just saw your reply. Well done. You can probably guess that you’re at the point where you can start looking for tubes that are extraneous. Your interior spider/spine is now adding to rigidity, but I still think that there are more weight and package effective ways to do that. A obvious factor: How thick is the tube? I’m used to triangulating everything to push the sizes thinner and thinner, lighter and lighter. Sometimes you have a brick of a tube that doesn’t need that.
Where your suspension mounts determines where the load will be. If there is nothing at these points, do they need to be there?
http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt237/jskitter/hooniverse/side_zpss928llie.jpg
I liked the front cross tubes in yellow. That was creative. Could be a good place to mount steering, could be extreme overkill.
http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt237/jskitter/hooniverse/iso_zpsrcxiaruc.jpg
I don’t know what sort of interior constraints you have, but I still recommend an X brace in the roof, and angling down the rear tubes either to their current point, or to the extreme rear with another X brace. If you’re not going to X the roof, you might as well only have the rear tubes as a (properly cross braced) roll hoop. Without triangulation across the roof, it’s not doing much to help the verticals.
http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt237/jskitter/hooniverse/rear_zps9ho9upnl.jpg -
Your insight is very much appreciated. I got rid of most of the center spine, and the tube is 1.5″ square with 0.125 wall (pretty solid stuff). As far as shortening the roofline in the rear, I need that interior space so I’m going to keep that. I’ll have to post some pictures of the chassis on a newer “last call” discussion when I get to that point.
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