Hooniverse Asks- Open Forum, What Car-Related Questions Do YOU Want to Ask?

Robert Emslie

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Questions

Today, in a very special Hooniverse Asks, I’m not asking you a question, I’m asking you for questions. That’s right, like the double live gonzo himself – Ted Nugent – once sang, it’s a free for all! Actually no, we’re not going to let things get quite that out of hand, and should the Motor City Madman show up, he’ll just have to wait his turn. 

What I’d like to do – and if you all are amenable I’ll open this up once a month – is to let you ask any automotive question you happen to have rattling around in your cabeza, and we’ll see if your fellow Hoons can come up with an answer, at least one that’s not half-assed.

There is a depth of automotive knowledge present in here, just waiting to be unleashed. If you’ve got a question – what’s a dwell meter, anyway? – you can be assured that one of your fellow Hoons will have the answer. Spoiler alert, it’s what gauges point gap duration. So since it’s Friday, and you’ve probably already checked out for the weekend even though you may not even be yet at work, let’s see if we can do an impromptu Q&A and see how it goes. 

Image source: AllThingsD

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Robert Emslie

Robert Emslie

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114 responses to “Hooniverse Asks- Open Forum, What Car-Related Questions Do YOU Want to Ask?”

  1. muthalovin Avatar
    muthalovin

    NSX?
    Oh, I know the answer. Yes.

    Reply
  2. buzzboy7 Avatar
    buzzboy7

    Okay, so on the idea of automatic transmissions. I understand pretty well how planetary gear sets work. That's not too complicated.
    But how do they get locked together? I always read, "Then it locks the planet carrier to the ring gear" or something like that. What exactly is going on in there?

    Reply
    1. skitter Avatar
      skitter

      There is a separate part used to lock or unlock rotation between planetary components. Ring, sun, planet carrier: pick two, and connect to opposite sides of a clutch or other coupling. The clutch can be open, slipping, or locked.

      Reply
    2. HSA Avatar
      HSA

      I've never advanced that far in understanding how an automatic transmission works. I'm STILL wondering why one has to push the lever forward to reverse the car, and pull it backwards to drive forward.

      Reply
      1. Stu_Rock Avatar
        Stu_Rock

        What are you talking about? Counterclockwise for reverse, clockwise for forward. Just like a clock. Makes sense to me!

        Reply
    3. smalleyxb122 Avatar
      smalleyxb122

      For every pair of components that are to be joined, there is a clutch pack. The clutch pack consists of clutch plates and separator plates (or “steels”). One of these plate types has splines on the inside to engage one of the two components, and the other plate type has splines on the outside which engage the other component. When uncoupled, the plates slide past each other, but when you want to lock them together, a hydraulic piston pushes the plates together, making the internally splined plates (and their component) turn in unison with the externally splined plates (and their component).
      Any animations that I can find online seem to ignore the clutches and only explain the planetary, so Google isn’t helping much.

      Reply
      1. buzzboy7 Avatar
        buzzboy7

        Thank you. The clutches have been left out of every explanation I have fond online.

        Reply
      2. toplessFC3Sman Avatar
        toplessFC3Sman

        Just to add to this, in a lot of older 3 and 4-speed autos, in 1st gear (and some in 2nd too) one of the components (differs depending on design) was held with a 1-way clutch instead of an actuated clutch, so torque can only flow from the engine to the wheels, not the other way around. This was done to make the controls easier & reduce the wear items, but the downside is that you can't use the car's momentum to keep the engine spinning (which you can otherwise, even through a torque converter)

        Reply
        1. ptschett Avatar
          ptschett

          Seems to me that the 1 way clutch in my T-bird's 2nd 4R70W was a wear item. When it let go, the shift sequence in D was 1-3-4. I'd have preferred that they used the 2nd gear clutch that was already there in the case to provide engine braking in 'manual' 2nd.

          Reply
  3. skitter Avatar
    skitter

    I am a diehard road warrior tripper and tripedalist. I would pass on many cars because the final ratio is too low (numerically high). I want the engine to be barely turning over at highway speeds.
    How many of you would do the opposite, and pass on a car because the gearing was too high (numerically low), and you had to drop a gear to make a quick pass or even climb a steep mountain on the interstate?

    Reply
    1. PotbellyJoe Avatar
      PotbellyJoe

      I'm with you. I fly places when in a hurry (Work, funerals, etc.) but when I'm on Vacation it's all about the drive. That means hours upon hours of 5th, or 6th gear cruising.
      I would rather a car be under 2500 rpm than over it on a highway.
      Unfortunately, since everything has been so 0-60 focused, or 55 mph efficiency focused, there are very few cars that have a cruising gear manual.
      I like the sound of engines, but the droning at 3000 is what kills.

      Reply
      1. P161911 Avatar
        P161911

        I remember my 1995 Vette witth a 6-speed would cruise at BELOW idle speed at 55mph in 6th. 70mph was something like 1300 rpm in 6th. This also led to mid to high 20s mpg on long trips.

        Reply
        1. buzzboy7 Avatar
          buzzboy7

          My friend's driving a Volvo 960 with the stock 3.11(IIRC) rear end and a T56 with the 0.62 overdrive. The engine feels like it's spinning backwards at those speeds. It's super quiet on the highway.

          Reply
      2. lincoln Avatar
        lincoln

        Agreed. This is my one gripe about my RSX Type-S. I love the car, but I hate sixth gear. i get the whole close ratio thing, but whats the point of having a six speed if 80mph is 4000(!) RPM??

        Reply
        1. Andrew Avatar
          Andrew

          I've started to find the 4000rpm drone at 70mph in my S2000 oddly soothing… I drove a friend's Mazda 3 recently and thought I'd killed the motor when I shifted into fifth and it went silent.

          Reply
      3. SSurfer321 Avatar
        SSurfer321

        05 F150 4.6L with 3.55 gears on 33" tires = 2018 RPM at 70 MPH

        Reply
    2. buzzboy7 Avatar
      buzzboy7

      There are many things I think about in this case. My subi falls into the group having too low of an FD for good highway cruising. It's fine at 55-60mph but out on the interstate I'm turning over roughly 3200rpm doing 80mph. It kills my gas mileage. On the flip side, it's not the most powerful car out there so I'm glad I get the low FD(3.88) for in town driving. I do often wish that I could get either a sixth gear with a ~0.65 ratio or a higher FD with a deeper 1st. However, I still have to drop down to pass usually with the lack of oomph out of my little EJ25.
      I've owned another car with ridiculous gearing, 1:1 top gear with 3.50 FD, and it's fun to drive but also annoying. I loved cruising around with the engine at the torque peak, 2400rpm, and passing with ease, but it made a LOT of noise at peak torque and she was a "bit" thirsty.

      Reply
    3. IronBallsMcG Avatar
      IronBallsMcG

      I would, but I've owned more Jeeps than anything.

      Reply
    4. P161911 Avatar
      P161911

      I think the final gear should be matched to the vehicle, especially the engine. My 1994 Corvette was probably best. My current 2011 Silverado WT 4.3L is probably the worst. A numerically high gear can really help an under-powered car. 1st gear on my Silverado is almost dangerous to drive in traffic, the 0-20 time is glacial, a numerically higher rear end or at least 1st gear would REALLY help.
      I have swapped rear ends/gear ratios on one car I've had. It was a 1987 E30 BMW 325 (e). The stock open 2.91 or so rear end would cruise on the highway at under 2000rpm or so, but was dog slow around town. A junkyard 3.25 LSD completely changed the personality of the car. It became a fun little car. It was slightly droning on the highway, but not too bad.
      On the other hand my Z3/M from hell had a 3.91 or so rear end and was superquick around town, but required too much shifting and droned waaay too much on the highway.

      Reply
    5. jeepjeff Avatar
      jeepjeff

      Jeep Wrangler 4.0s can be found with manual transmissions and one of two (when stock) gear sets: 3.07 and 3.73. The original owner checked the towing package box on mine which got it the Dana44 rear-end with the shorter 3.73 gears. It's a hoot. It still only spins around 2200 at 65 on the highway in 5th. That also has the advantage of being just a little bit in the power band, so I have some go ready at a moment's notice. That said, I still have to drop to 4th to make any kind of quick maneuvers, so the gears aren't that short. Part of me wonders if 4.11 would be better (but I'm right at the carrier break for my rear end, which means 4.11 would be a commitment, particularly if I upgraded the carrier at the same time).
      I would pass on the 3.07s or mark it down as something to immediately upgrade. Particularly since mine feels just right in the oomph department, and there's no end of grousing about the taller 3.07 gears (a few people defend them and like them, but they're a distinct minority, and generally freely admit to being slow-car-slow drivers).

      Reply
      1. ericzeol Avatar
        ericzeol

        Although I would probably agree that the 3.73 is better, my 3.07 in a non lifted TJ with the 6 speed works well on the highway. That is, until I hit anything more than a gradual rise in the road (if I plan on highway driving at 75+ on the PA turnpike, shifting will be happening in order to keep that speed up)

        Reply
        1. jeepjeff Avatar
          jeepjeff

          I can maintain highway speed in 5th (I have a 2001 with the NV3550 5 speed, also not lifted w/30" tires) up most of the pull up Donner Pass in the Sierra Nevada. There's only one section where I really need to drop to 4th to maintain speed. Which is another reason for me to have the shorter gears: I do a lot of driving on hills and mountain passes. More than a gradual rise in the road is generally the order of the day. 3.07 gears are definitely usable, and would certainly work fine on the flats (and with a little shifting on the hills), I wouldn't be as happy with them.

          Reply
    6. duurtlang_ Avatar
      duurtlang_

      My 406 coupe gets about 4000 rpm at high cruising speed (135 kmh/85 mph) in 5th, which is annoying. It's great for passing, but not for sound and economy. When shopping for a next car I'd definitely pay more attention to this aspect of the car. With high gearing you've got the option to downshift, with low gearing you don't have the option to upshift. That's the annoying part of this problem. I crave a 6th gear in my DD.

      Reply
  4. PotbellyJoe Avatar
    PotbellyJoe

    Bald men and convertibles. Don't they know better?

    Reply
    1. muthalovin Avatar
      muthalovin

      Apparently not.
      Are you more likely to see a bald man driving a foreign or domestic?

      Reply
      1. PotbellyJoe Avatar
        PotbellyJoe

        <img src="http://www.titleist.com/images/pressreleases/prov1x-sidestamp.jpg&quot; width=600>
        Domestic.

        Reply
    2. P161911 Avatar
      P161911

      When my dad (who is bald) got a Saab 900 convertible (2004), I got him one of these:
      <img src="http://www.robertomanzoni.it/pics/imgBig/berretto_hannahats_intero.jpg"width=400&gt;

      Reply
      1. topdeadcentre Avatar
        topdeadcentre

        Hey! How'd you steal my hat!

        Reply
    3. salguod Avatar
      salguod

      Hey! I resemble that remark! (and I keep a ball cap in the ragtop)

      Reply
  5. muthalovin Avatar
    muthalovin

    Have you ever bought a car listed on a forum?
    Recently I read an interview with Jay Leno, and he said that if you are looking for a decent used vehicle that has been well maintained and will likely last you a long time, it is worth paying a bit of a premium to buy a car from someone who is an enthusiast and has likely taken very good care of the vehicle, as opposed to Mr. Random Craigslist.

    Reply
    1. PotbellyJoe Avatar
      PotbellyJoe

      Bought and sold on a few.
      You get better information on the car that way than a guy that is just selling a car of his. However. EVERYTHING on a car forum has some "rare" or "special" items that suddenly make it cost what they think it should.
      As long as you can stroke their love of their car while negotiating, its not a bad place to be.

      Reply
    2. JayP2112 Avatar
      JayP2112

      I bought my 944 from a local guy off Rennlist. I was shopping for a 924/944 for track events. He had his car set up for P-Club autox which was perfect for DEs. He had installed a Weltmeister suspension kit and had 8" phonedials all around. I paid about a $1500 premium over a stock 944S but it was worth it.
      The bad part- I never got the service history and the timing belt is a b-tch. I don't think the PO ever had it from the PPO either.
      I used it pretty much for track events and the occasional run for doughnuts. On a lark, I posted it to Ebay on a free car listing weekend. I got some local calls but one guy in Wisconsin wanted it bad. Even with no service history, oily engine bay and thin-thread interior he still 'bought it now'… for the same price I'd paid. Yay!

      Reply
    3. TurboBrick Avatar
      TurboBrick

      Yes, actually I did. My last Volvo came to my posession that way. It was an oddly relieving experience. There was no need to lie or misrepresent because both of us knew what was what. "Yeah, the transfer pump is bad, but there's a spare in the trunk" or "T-belt needs changing soon, I wrote the mileage here on the timing cover". Great!

      Reply
  6. I_Borgward Avatar
    I_Borgward

    Q: What is the veteran car of the new century?
    Name a car built after 2000 that has withstood the acid test of a decade in the field and proven itself with a reputation for cockroach-like durability. A good choice for the mechanically-inclined hoon to keep pounding the road with for years to come.
    Sooner or later, my two Volvo 240s will go the way of all things and become impractical for daily transport. What could I replace them with? Think ease of repairs, parts availability and general mule-like dependability… the Dodge Dart with a Slant 6 of the new Millennium.

    Reply
    1. P161911 Avatar
      P161911

      Full size trucks, GM and Ford.

      Reply
      1. Devin Avatar
        Devin

        I'll agree on this one, there are millions of them and they just don't seem to die, at worst getting some rust in the rear fenders.

        Reply
    2. Goodwin Avatar
      Goodwin

      Pretty much any Toyota, I guess. I am not a fan and I would not buy one (except for the HiLux), but Ive got to say- theyre pretty solid.
      Sorry for doubleposting////

      Reply
    3. Alff Avatar
      Alff

      Dodge Stratus, if you can stand to drive it.

      Reply
      1. scroggzilla Avatar
        scroggzilla

        As the former owner of a 1996 Plymouth Breeze, I respectfully declare bullshit on your assertion.

        Reply
        1. Alff Avatar
          Alff

          Fair enough. There are several in my in-laws' family (man, do we have bad taste) – my impression is that non-critical stuff tends to break, but drivetrains live on long after the desire to own the car has passed. If you've ever read Shibumi, that is exactly the story of the Volvo.

          Reply
    4. JayP2112 Avatar
      JayP2112

      Ranger 2.3 16v or Mustang.

      Reply
    5. dculberson Avatar
      dculberson

      Ford Crown Vic. Cockroach like reliability and tough as nails. Easy to work on, relatively simple, and you can score one for dirt cheap from a police auction if you're adventurous.
      I would say Lexus LS400 – my favorite answer for almost anything despite not owning one at the moment – but ease of repair is an issue on some of the things. Frequency of repairs is way, way down though.

      Reply
    6. P161911 Avatar
      P161911

      Based on my dad's company car, sadly, the Dodge Caliber. He has over 200k miles on his with no major repairs.

      Reply
    7. SSurfer321 Avatar
      SSurfer321

      Anything by Subaru. Those little things just run forever.

      Reply
    8. Devin Avatar
      Devin

      Was the last-gen Pontiac Grand Am and Olds Alero secretly brilliant? Because of all the early '00s cars I see those the most often, and they seem to hold up whether they're taken care of or abused like [insert inappropriate simile here].

      Reply
    9. salguod Avatar
      salguod

      The last of the Ford Escorts. They are simple and very reliable. Watch for rust though. The Focus was decidedly not reliable, at least the early years.
      Also, Honda Civic & 4 cylinder Accords. Problem there is everyone knows they're great and that drives the price up. When I bought my daughter's '98 Escort for $2K I got a pretty solid 110K mile car. A $2K Civic was 230K-260K miles. I don't care what it is, that's too close to end of life.
      I've heard that Neons are pretty good too, but I don't have first hand experience with them.

      Reply
  7. Goodwin Avatar
    Goodwin

    Pretty much any Toyota, I guess. I am not a fan and I would not buy one (except for the HiLux), but Ive got to say- theyre pretty solid.

    Reply
  8. LTDScott Avatar
    LTDScott

    What kind of car is this? My friend's house has been getting egged and he got this shot of it as it was driving away. I'm honestly stumped.
    <img src="https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/578270_10200343998356131_1649058440_n.jpg"&gt;

    Reply
    1. muthalovin Avatar
      muthalovin

      Certainly not an NSX because an owner would never, ever do something so eggregious (hah).

      Reply
    2. Maxichamp Avatar
      Maxichamp

      Send it to [redacted]. They love this "Help us catch this criminal by identifying this vehicle" stuff.

      Reply
    3. B72 Avatar
      B72

      I checked New Beetle, but that's not it.
      Is he enough of a car guy to tell us what it sounded like? Small vs. big motor, stick vs. auto, loud vs quiet – that kind of thing?

      Reply
    4. quattrovalvole Avatar
      quattrovalvole

      Pontiac Solstice? But then those square reflectors below the brake lights don't match (although the the height of the brake lights & license plate do)
      <img src="http://fotos.blogdelmotor.com/imagenesWeb/internas/pontiac-solstice-2007-exterior-6-xl.jpg&quot; width=640 />

      Reply
      1. LTDScott Avatar
        LTDScott

        And it doesn't have side marker lights.

        Reply
    5. pj134 Avatar
      pj134

      I would bet Veloster.

      Reply
      1. LTDScott Avatar
        LTDScott

        License plate is too high to be a Veloster,

        Reply
        1. pj134 Avatar
          pj134

          Yeah, that's what I was coming back with. Something in that vein though. It's very Matrix-y but the red is in the wrong spot.

          Reply
    6. PotbellyJoe Avatar
      PotbellyJoe

      <img src="http://carreviewwallpaper.com/picture/2009-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Sportback-Ralliart-Images,-Picture,-Wallpaper-3.jpg&quot; width=600>
      It could be a Mitsubishi Lance Sportback, but they would have had to have sold one….

      Reply
    7. LTDScott Avatar
      LTDScott

      We've determined it's most likely a 1st gen Volvo S40. The shape of the illuminated portion of the light and side marker are distorted by movement, but everything else fits.

      Reply
      1. pj134 Avatar
        pj134

        What about the thing in the middle that looks like a nissan logo? The S40 trunk was clean and had text in the lower corners.

        Reply
        1. LTDScott Avatar
          LTDScott

          Pretty sure that's just lens flare, you can see it in other parts of the photo.

          Reply
    8. Alcology Avatar
      Alcology

      Enhance.

      Reply
      1. LTDScott Avatar
        LTDScott

        Thanks, Grissom.

        Reply
  9. Number_Six Avatar
    Number_Six

    Do limited-slip diffs occasionally graunch in low-mileage, unabused sports cars? Once in a while reversing or maneuvering in a parking lot, my RX-8 does this.

    Reply
    1. LTDScott Avatar
      LTDScott

      They shouldn't. Many LSDs use a friction modifier or other type of special lubricant to prevent this.

      Reply
      1. Number_Six Avatar
        Number_Six

        I changed the diff fluid and that made it a lot quieter but it still makes itself known now and again.

        Reply
        1. LTDScott Avatar
          LTDScott

          A bottle of Ford Friction Modifier may help. I have read that the LSD in my Mazdaspeed 3 sometimes has the same issue (although I've never experienced it) and the Ford stuff seems to be the cure.

          Reply
    2. Andrew Avatar
      Andrew

      I get the same noise fairly frequently, and I believe our cars have very similar diffs? They are definitely both set unusually tight for a low-torque street car.

      Reply
    3. pj134 Avatar
      pj134

      My brother's did this fairly frequently too.

      Reply
    4. Alff Avatar
      Alff

      Not surprising, with all that available torque. 😉

      Reply
  10. kyle_a_m Avatar
    kyle_a_m

    I think if I had to pick just one question, it would be WHAT THE HELL WAS LAST WEEK'S MYSTERY CAR?!
    …but that's probably just me, and the answer should be coming aaaaany minute now.

    Reply
    1. Rover 1 Avatar
      Rover 1

      I'm with you on this one!

      Reply
  11. Maxichamp Avatar
    Maxichamp

    Am I going to enjoy test driving a low mileage Saab 9-2 this afternoon?

    Reply
    1. Devin Avatar
      Devin

      All signs point to maybe.

      Reply
      1. Maxichamp Avatar
        Maxichamp

        My impressions:
        http://karakullake.blogspot.com/2013/03/saabaru-9…

        Reply
    2. P161911 Avatar
      P161911

      Regular or 9-2 Aero? I found the Aero version to have horrible seats for my large frame and it felt like you hit the center diff with a sledgehammer when I shifted at a high rate of acceleration.

      Reply
      1. Maxichamp Avatar
        Maxichamp

        Linear. The shifter was agricultural and the engine a bit underpowered. But it was very tossable.

        Reply
  12. Peter Tanshanomi Avatar
    Peter Tanshanomi

    Just bought one of these last night, $213.99 including tax.
    4.4 SCFM @ 90 PSI, 5 gallon capacity. Oil lube, direct drive.
    Did I get a good deal?
    <img src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RU0UcUiyL._SL500_AA300_.jpg"&gt;

    Reply
    1. SSurfer321 Avatar
      SSurfer321

      $215 for a motorized Unicycle? All signs point to yes.

      Reply
  13. Dean Bigglesworth Avatar
    Dean Bigglesworth

    How much force/weight is required to use the clutch on a car? Could I install a motorcycle clutch lever on the gearstick and still be able to use the clutch pedal via cable? I guess my actual question is that can I get enough pedal travel with reasonable lever movement.. A few kilos would be reasonable, if it would be closer to 10kg it would get tiring pretty fast..
    The reason I am asking is because I'm thinking of buying a cheap and fun-ish manual car(possibly an MX-5) and making my own hand controls instead of paying 7k€ for fancy ones. The brake and throttle are easy, but a direct mechanical clutch lever is not possible and electric actuators are too slow at 10-15mm/s. I would prefer it if I didn't have to build a pneumatic system, it would be fast but would lack any kind of feel and be unnecessarily complicated if a lever could work.

    Reply
    1. Peter Tanshanomi Avatar
      Peter Tanshanomi

      You can do it, but it might not be very pleasant. An automobile brake pedal typically requires between 75-120 pounds of force for maximum actuation. A motorcycle's hand brake lever typically actuates within a 15–40 pound range. So between cranking the car's brake booster pushrod for maximum assist and a gorilla's grip strength, it would be possible, but not very practical. Handbrake adapter kits for handicapped use employ some additional force assist generator (hydraulic pump, remote servo, etc) to get actuation pressure down within typical hand strength.

      Reply
      1. Dean Bigglesworth Avatar
        Dean Bigglesworth

        Thanks, though i was wondering about the clutch 😉 The brake is easy to make(a straight rod from the pedal is enough with power brakes) and the throttle could be done with a strong servo and a simple controller. Commercial "servo-clutches" are pretty much all electronic nowadays and cost 3k€ just for the clutch, older systems used intake vacuum and speed sensors to control the clutch which i think is the most elegant solution.
        If it would be too heavy then i would just have to build a pneumatic clutch and add adjustable valves to control the speed of the actuator. The only experiance i have with pneumatics is Technic LEGOs.

        Reply
        1. Peter Tanshanomi Avatar
          Peter Tanshanomi

          I should have read more carefully. I had done the homework myself on braking, so the knowledge was in my head. That's the only knowledge in my head to share; don't know about clutch pressures.
          You might look at marrying a motorcycle hydraulic clutch master cylinder to an in-line hydraulic pressure booster, but I have no idea if there's a 12V, affordable unit out there.

          Reply
          1. Dean Bigglesworth Avatar
            Dean Bigglesworth

            Thanks for the idea, I hadn't thought about using a master cylinder from a bike and adding an in-line booster.. I'll look into that too. Seems like that would allow me to retain some kind of feel for the clutch, say compared to a fully pneumatic system which would also require a compressor.
            Of course all of this would be much simpler if I would just drove automatics like i have so far, but I've had enough of those. For years i've been thinking of DIY hand controls for a manual, and it's something that would be a fun project that would also enable me to drive much more fun cars.

    2. smalleyxb122 Avatar
      smalleyxb122

      Mathematically, it’s possible, but it’s probably not realistic using readily available components.
      I ran some random (but somewhat realistic) numbers to give you an idea.
      Assuming a 10 inch clutch with 1.5 inches of clutching surface, it results in a radius of action of 4.25 inches. To withstand a torque of 150 lb-ft, at a frictional coefficient of 0.3, this needs roughly 1300 lb of axial force to the flywheel. Estimate an 8:1 ratio on the diaphragm, and it requires 167 lbs at the throwout bearing. The throwout bearing travel we will estimate at 0.375”. The rest of the mechanical multipliers (clutch fork ratio, hydraulic force multipliers, etc) can be ignored, since the work required will stay constant if we assume 100% efficiency in the conversion. The work required to move 167 lbs a distance of 0.375” is equivalent to the work required to move 22 lbs (or 10kg) 2.85”. Therefore, if you have a clutch that is sized to just barely handle 150 lb-ft, it can be actuated with 3 inches of hand lever travel. Any increase in torque capacity will require a commensurate increase in force and/or distance. If you wanted to handle 300 ft-lbs, it would require nearly 6 inches of travel to stay at 22lbs actuation force, or would need to increase to 44lbs of force to maintain 3 inches of travel.
      Since these are the minimum numbers to handle a maximum of 150 ft-lb, you are unlikely to have a pressure plate that is this weak. Actual force and/or lever travel will be higher.
      You would need custom designed components to either decrease the force required at the flywheel (multi-disc clutch), or to add supplemental power to the system using pneumatics, hydraulics, vacuum, or electrical.

      Reply
      1. Dean Bigglesworth Avatar
        Dean Bigglesworth

        Thank you, that is quite a lot of detail 🙂 And remarkably accurate for a Miata, after some internet-digging i found that the stock clutch requires about 20 pounds of pressure. Still, even 20 pounds is a bit much, and the clutch pedal travel is a lot more than 3 inches so it would probably be close to 40 pounds anyway.
        So I would need to add a booster of some sort, or just skip the lever and use pneumatics with a switch and adjustable valves to control the speed of the actuator.. I would like to have more than on/off control over the clutch so a booster like Tanshanomi mentioned above sounds like the better option.

        Reply
        1. stickmanonymous Avatar
          stickmanonymous

          No idea if it may help, but my KTM has a hydraulic clutch. I assume it would be easier to route the line, and finding some kind of booster for it might be easier.

          Reply
    3. skitter Avatar
      skitter

      Sorry for the late reply, and the above answers are all good.
      Don't forget that in addition to working with different master and slave cylinder sizes, you can also increase the length of the lever. The way we used to shift a motorcycle gearbox was with a push-pull lever. Push forward to disengage the clutch and engage the lower gear, release to engage the clutch. It gets trickier when (1) the clutch needs to be actuated when pulling back as well as going forward and (2) you want to use an H-pattern instead of a sequential.
      So the linkage is tricky, but you could have a nice, long Koenigsegg style lever to do clutch and shifting.
      This is off the top of my head.
      Get in touch with my friends at Zekenetic. Their main focus is karts right now, but I know Zeke would be interested. And shoot me a message in the forums. I'd be glad to help in any way I can.

      Reply
      1. Dean Bigglesworth Avatar
        Dean Bigglesworth

        Zekenetic sounds cool but i'm on the other side of the world. I'll let you know if and when I can actually get a car and do something.. I'd love to start this project tomorrow but most likely it'll have to wait a few years at least.

        Reply
  14. Devin Avatar
    Devin

    For various reasons, I'm considering getting an Elantra GT. Admittedly, part of the reason is I want the giant sunroof for fauxpen air motoring. Should I?

    Reply
    1. Number_Six Avatar
      Number_Six

      A pre-owned Audi A3 with the panorama roof would be healthier for your self-esteem but might leave a weeping open sore in your pocketbook.

      Reply
    2. PotbellyJoe Avatar
      PotbellyJoe

      Fiat 500C?
      Unless you need storage.
      The problems Hyundai is having with the shattering sunroofs in the Veloster makes me skittish…

      Reply
      1. Devin Avatar
        Devin

        I do need storage, I kind of need a good all rounder and the Hyundai is actually unexpectedly good anyway, plus it comes with that giant sunroof. I suppose I should be a bit worried about the shattering sunroof but my boss' Veloster has held up in spite of a winter where all the snow has been on the roof.

        Reply
        1. PotbellyJoe Avatar
          PotbellyJoe

          The shattering, I think, is more to do with chassis flex than weight on it. Just don't get the big rims.
          They're not bad otherwise.

          Reply
          1. Devin Avatar
            Devin

            The one I'm looking that is very similar to this:
            <img src="http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/4337/img20120908111739.jpg&quot; width="500">
            I am not completely sold on the color, if I'm honest. Opinions?

          2. PotbellyJoe Avatar
            PotbellyJoe

            Nothing wrong that a SBC swap won't fix.
            As an owner of a Vibe GT, I am a fan of the compact hatch for daily use. I also know how many variables come into play when pick the right one of the options there are (Focus, 3, Impreza, XV, Elantra, Forte, etc.) So if it check enough boxes, go for it!

          3. Devin Avatar
            Devin

            I've got a Matrix myself, and the only thing stopping me is that there's nothing really wrong with the Matrix. But this thing is shiny and has a great big sunroof and I'm basically a magpie sometimes.

          4. PotbellyJoe Avatar
            PotbellyJoe

            If I were replacing the Vibe, I don't know if there's a ton out there for what I need to get out of the cars.
            The fact that there is a 201-hp turbo Kia Forte5 coming for 2014 would make me hold off if I were going with an Elantra…

          5. Peter Tanshanomi Avatar
            Peter Tanshanomi

            I was really hoping the new Elantra GT would be more like the '03–'05 GT, which was more of a classic 5-door shape (something I would like to see make a comeback). A co-worker has one and it's a really attractive shape, even if it doesn't have enthusiast-grade mechanicals under it.
            <img src="http://images1.americanlisted.com/nlarge/2003_hyundai_elantra_gt_5-door-_maroon-_auto-_94k_31430189.jpg&quot; width="520">

          6. PotbellyJoe Avatar
            PotbellyJoe

            It's funny to me to see the silhouettes that the Koreans go for with their cars. The 03-05 GT looked like a Saabaru mash-up.
            Then the Kia Spectra5 launched as soon as the Protege5 was winding down.
            <img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ac/07-Kia-Spectra5.jpg&quot; width=480>
            <img src="http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/3388/2601/33468800006_large.jpg&quot; width=480>

  15. Stu_Rock Avatar
    Stu_Rock

    Displaying a European license plate under the proper license plate, Brah! or Blah?
    <img src="http://sfcitizen.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/06/img_8545-copy.jpg&quot; width=480>

    Reply
    1. Devin Avatar
      Devin

      It's possible to pull it off, but you need something a bit less… car-like.
      <img src="http://i.usatoday.net/communitymanager/_photos/drive-on/2009/11/24/mystery9frontx-large.jpg"&gt;

      Reply
      1. mdharrell Avatar
        mdharrell

        Those French plates are riveted in place, as was required by law. I did carefully remove them when I got the KV, but it turns out an even older registration is painted directly onto the car at both ends, poorly, which looks much worse projecting from the sides of the WA plates. I had little choice but to reaffix the other plates.
        This meant, of course, that I had to find an NOS set of official French-spec license plate rivets, white for the front and yellow for the rear. And I did.

        Reply
        1. topdeadcentre Avatar
          topdeadcentre

          Fancypants concours purist… Just one "Worst in Show" at one of the majors and it all goes to your head…
          :o)

          Reply
          1. mdharrell Avatar
            mdharrell

            I'll have you know that work was done prior to its appearance at the Concours d'LeMons.
            As was scrubbing the engine compartment with lemon-scented S.O.S pads. Only the best.

    2. pj134 Avatar
      pj134

      Blah.

      Reply
    3. Alff Avatar
      Alff

      Unless you just drove from Berlin to California, blah.

      Reply
    4. Peter Tanshanomi Avatar
      Peter Tanshanomi

      The only one that's cool is the fictitious license plate a NASA shuttle pilot (I forget which one) had made up with the number "STS-XXX" (whatever his first mission was). In smaller letters above it, where the state (or country) name would be, it read "Low Earth Orbit."

      Reply
    5. Maxichamp Avatar
      Maxichamp

      Hey, I was that douchebag, circa 2001!

      Reply
  16. Roberto G. Avatar
    Roberto G.

    Why the sparking plugs are named so since they do not get plugged-in, but instead they must be screwed in a hole? They should be named sparking screws.

    Reply
    1. jeepjeff Avatar
      jeepjeff

      <img src="http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/400x/33918479.jpg"&gt;

      Reply
      1. Roberto G. Avatar
        Roberto G.

        <img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W75ARq7MQy4/TWO-JcLpiyI/AAAAAAAAAFc/gucQ6nT0hGA/s1600/candela%5B2%5D.jpg&quot; width=600>
        In Italy we call them "candele", candles. It's much more poetic.

        Reply
  17. peugeotdude505 Avatar
    peugeotdude505

    I get a Check Engine Light on my 2004 Mitsubishi Galant 2.4L. I had the codes checked and it is P0421/P0431, Catalytic Convertor Effiency. It does go on & off sometimes, and you can reset it but it comes back after a few days. Car has 200,000k
    I understand something like this would help, Has anybody used something similiar?
    http://www.inlinefour.com/blcelelad.html

    Reply
    1. Roberto G. Avatar
      Roberto G.

      Then it's time to replace the converter. Believe me. It's time indeed. Yep, it's time.

      Reply
  18. POLAЯ Avatar
    POLAЯ

    A rather deep, dark issue, but I find the growing popularity of the roadside memorial becoming rather disturbing. Now I'm not too manic, and I am fairly stable to a degree, but I find the constant reminders of the loss of some poor family's relative, especially when it involves little ones, it makes me question the strength of the medicine. So, I often ponder things such as, hmmm, do these things expire after a while? How long does the grieving process take at the side of the highway? Does your family take sole proprietorship of the hydro pole wrapped in flowers and teddy bears? Are you really gonna forget which one they hit? Isn't this what graveyards are for?
    At first I thought I was alone in thinking this way, but then I found a somewhat dated article about this extremist who turned up in the news for DISMANTELING THEM!?!?!!? I'm no genius, but I know the bad Karma when I sees it!
    http://www.thestar.com/news/gta/2012/10/13/duelli…

    Reply