Searching for beater cars on craigslist is a favorite past-time of many auto enthusiasts, myself included. The best use for a beater car is the wintertime. Keep that salt and grit off of your nice car and let it collect in something much less precious. What makes a good winter beater, though?
Some Quick Parameters
Any drive type is really okay. AWD is probably the best balance between fun and practicality. RWD is definitely the most fun, but you’ll likely be swerving around quite a bit. FWD is boring, but most cars are FWD, so they’re the cheapest and most common. Any transmission will do, I’ll be looking for stick cars though. Not because they’re better–I just like them more.
I’ll primarily be looking for fun cars like coupes and wagons because I like having fun. I’m not going to bring up some rusted-out F250 just because it’s cheap and practical. That’s boring and there are enough boring things about cars to read. I want action! I want action, now!
I will not be including cars that don’t run or have serious mechanical issues.
The final parameter: Does it look good on silver-painted steel wheels? The only real must-have for a winter beater is, of course, winter tires. I’m also gonna keep the price below 1000 dollars. Anything above 1000 dollars is bourgeois decadence.
All of these cars are gonna be one-hundred miles around Philadelphia because that’s where I live.
Let us begin
There’s actually some good (albeit limited) options here.
2003 325XI — $1000
My family has had quite a few E46s (I think around five total). They’re probably the best all-around three series. This one is looking like a deal to me. According to the description the right side of the car has “heat damage”. I’m not sure what that means.
The car only has like 100k miles on it, and it’s a five-speed! For a thousand dollars? I’m not sure why you wouldn’t buy it. There are no interior photos so it may-well be absolutely ruined inside, but it could also be minty fresh. I’d call this car a healthy gamble.
The cooling system on these things typically goes around 100k, though. Several of the window regulators are also likely broken. That really doesn’t matter though. It’s the winter, it’s cold, this car is a thousand-dollars-worth of German luxury. It’s got a stick, AWD, and there’s plenty of space in it. The thing looks like a noble steed from where I’m sitting.
2001 Nissan Altima — $690
One of my high-school friends rear-ended an Altima in his absolute trash heap of an E36 after only having it for a few days. Good riddance. That car had one of those aftermarket security systems that would totally immobilize it. I was happy when that automatic 325i sedan got taken to the junkyard. We still make fun of him for the whole situation. He’s fine, by the way. Still as stupid as ever.
This particular Altima looks–and I don’t say this lightly–like a total sweetie. Seems like it has a bit of rust here and there, but I have a frozen pizza in the oven right now and I’m a lot more concerned about that.
The mileage is high at 243k, but all that could possibly mean is that it has a few new parts a burns a little oil. If you look carefully under those plastic hubcaps you can see some steel wheels peeking though. A little silver paint and we’re in business.
I also like the way the owner talks about this car. He even suggests it would be a good winter car. He wants us to test drive it, “and grab it.” He would probably take a little off the price if he liked the cut of your jib.
1988 Toyota Pickup — $500
Toyota pickups are pretty legendary for their reliability. This one in particular looks prepared for combat. I think I’ve seen this truck in a few Syrian civil war Youtube videos.
The owner, Ron, says the frame is “rotting out.” I’m not sure I believe you, Ron. Not only does that just look like scale, I think a little bit of booger-welding and flat stock could greatly extend this vehicle’s life.
The wheel and tire situation looks pretty good. Nice big sidewall to soak up those dirt road potholes. The cab looks clean, too. Only some minor rust.
The best part is definitely the engine, though. Looks like some organic material has taken up residence on the intake manifold. That’s typically a good sign an engine is well-loved. For five hundred bucks, I would say this is about the right price.
2005 BMW X3 — $1000
The first-gen X3s were available with a 6-speed stick. Weird, but actually not extremely rare. Strangely enough, a fair amount of people bought them.
I think this particular X3 is a 3.0, but I’m not absolutely certain. You may be tempted to jump all over of this thing, but I really would not go anywhere close. The car looks like it was rear-ended, and just by reading the vehicle’s description you can tell this thing has absolutely had it.
1996 GEO Metro — $100
For a hundred dollars, I’m not sure how you could really go wrong. This is the ideal winter beater. This thing apparently only needs a serpentine belt to get going again. There’s only one picture, but I think that’s what we paid for.
It appears to have one slightly soft tire–the front left. One of my friends pointed out that your insurance may well total the car if you wanted them to replace it. Very interesting.
This honey of a car is located in what appears to be a very bad area of Baltimore, so getting this thing would be something of a quest. I would do it just for the good story, and the owner could probably be talked down. He seems only slightly literate.
2007 Saturn Ion — $900
The last car on this list, and probably the best all-rounder, is a Saturn Ion. The owner claims it’s a six-cylinder car. Every Saturn Ion had an inline-four.
The interior looks like it’s in great shape. Take a look at those rear buckets with the nice big cupholders in the middle. It makes me excited–a little too excited.
The wheels are also in great shape. They’re machined five-spoke alloys. They gotta be at least fifteens.
At 157k miles and only nine-hundred bucks? It sounds like a steal to me. Looks clean as all hell. I would happily drive this car for a few months and then mow around it in my yard.
No Subarus?
All of the Subarus in this price range had blown head gaskets or spun rod bearings. The owners of these cars also all seemed like… assholes. Kind of like boomer-types who “knew what they had” and didn’t seem like they really wanted to sell their cars (even though they were all under a grand). I don’t think I would get along with them, and I think they would take issue with my affinity for Coors Light.
You should be fine with the assortment I’ve prepared for you anyway.
The Saturn seems like the real deal here. A BMW for that little money will be really expensive, even for just one winter. A friend of mine bought a nice looking BMW 5 wagon for about 10k$ after we graduated. That thing was a basket case, and I had warned him. The day after I had to help him start it with my very shabby ’71 Volvo 145 he traded the BMW for a Toyota Avensis that he still drives. His car spirit was broken.
1k$ is too little money for a proper-ish car in Norway. But there are a few finds for gamblers.
1994 Ford Probe that will fail its tech inspection a month from now. Leaks battery power, despite a new alternator, but it will work if driven daily…or so the seller claims.
https://www.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=169160417
https://images.finncdn.no/dynamic/960w/2020/2/vertical-0/18/7/169/160/417_1690050887.jpg
This one has a valid tech inspection until coming october, but leaks coolant. Nonetheless, not the worst deal at 900-ish $. Green plates means it’s a transport vehicle with only two seats:
https://www.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=170770017
https://images.finncdn.no/dynamic/960w/2020/2/vertical-0/17/7/170/770/017_1727023193.jpg
And here’s the true poor man’s car of the North: A Suzuki Baleno 4WD. These things have an outstanding reputation as easy to repair, cheap to run. Rust kills these for “normal” users, so it’s a favourite for handy guys:
https://www.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=169438925
https://images.finncdn.no/dynamic/960w/2020/2/vertical-0/02/5/169/438/925_1923100889.jpg
The Saturn seems like the real deal here. A BMW for that little money will be really expensive, even for just one winter. A friend of mine bought a nice looking BMW 5 wagon for about 10k$ after we graduated. That thing was a basket case, and I had warned him. The day after I had to help him start it with my very shabby ’71 Volvo 145 he traded the BMW for a Toyota Avensis that he still drives. His car spirit was broken.
1k$ is too little money for a proper-ish car in Norway. But there are a few finds for gamblers.
1994 Ford Probe that will fail its tech inspection a month from now. Leaks battery power, despite a new alternator, but it will work if driven daily…or so the seller claims.
https://www.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=169160417
https://images.finncdn.no/dynamic/960w/2020/2/vertical-0/18/7/169/160/417_1690050887.jpg
This one has a valid tech inspection until coming october, but leaks coolant. Nonetheless, not the worst deal at 900-ish $. Green plates means it’s a transport vehicle with only two seats:
https://www.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=170770017
https://images.finncdn.no/dynamic/960w/2020/2/vertical-0/17/7/170/770/017_1727023193.jpg
And here’s the true poor man’s car of the North: A Suzuki Baleno 4WD. These things have an outstanding reputation as easy to repair, cheap to run. Rust kills these for “normal” users, so it’s a favourite for handy guys:
https://www.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=169438925
https://images.finncdn.no/dynamic/960w/2020/2/vertical-0/02/5/169/438/925_1923100889.jpg
I am saddened by the lack of Dodge St. Regis that the lead image teased at.
I would pick the Metro, except that if the serpentine belt is missing, the car could have been driven that way without a functional water pump, so maybe head gasket issues lurk.
What kind of insurance policy would you put on a $100 car, and not have the premium+deductible exceed the payout?
Third party property damage
Yes, but the context was “One of my friends pointed out that your insurance may well total the car if you wanted them to replace it”. You would need somebody else’s policy for that.
Just an attempt at a real answer to a rhetorical question. Doubt you could insure a $100 car if you wanted to.
You absolutely can, at least in the US.
I think I may have a terminology issue here; I’m not talking about insurance for injury or damage to the other party, but repair/replacement of your own vehicle. I gather the former is what is required under legislation but I wouldn’t have thought it would be compulsory to insure damage to your own vehicle? It isn’t in Australia, and is expensive for young drivers or cheap cars in relation to their value.
Ah, gotcha. You’re correct in that it’s mandatory to carry at least a certain minimum amount of liability insurance (in most states, can’t say for sure if all 50 compel drivers to do so), but I’d be surprised if you couldn’t find an insurer willing to issue a policy on even the most abysmal shitbox if you’re willing to pony up for the premium.
At $100, it probably has rodents in the body somewhere, or there was a dead body in it, and that smell is not coming out.
Setting aside the fact the I don’t have a “nice” car to preserve, I looked through the classifieds for anything with a manual transmission under $1325 ($1000 USD in CAD as of today). Setting aside the myriad Civics, MkIV VW’s, and Mazdas that are now more rust than car, I found a few worthy choices, but one became my instant front-runner.
There were two primary considerations. First, the Swedes build cars that survive winter nicely. Secondly, it’s a perverse Toronto-area tradition that by some point in March, the moment it barely creeps past freezing, patios are overrun with people convinced spring is here. Why not follow that lead and get a convertible? As a bonus third point, no one’s going to get too broken up that I used up a basic GM-era Saab.
https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/mesAAOSwwN1dnQMi/$_59.JPG
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/mississauga-peel-region/1997-saab-900-s-2-3/1464787881
That $1000 E46 is a $2000 E46 once you replace the cooling system bits, the window regulators and the lower control arms that are likely loose. Not to mention the valve cover gasket, the oil filter housing gasket, the CCV parts or the VANOS seals. My $3600 E46 is now a $5200, and counting, E46.
“Heat damage” could involve:
– a fire nearby
– a drag racing session
– a randy buck
Or some combination of the above.
Am I the only one that feels cheated by that glorious lead in image of a Caprice (I assume) vs the mostly meh that followed?
Nope!
That’s some Mopar product, not sure what flavor.
It’s a ’78-80 Dodge St. Regis. They never sold in massive numbers, and their survival rate was even worse. They’re pretty much extinct.
Somehow I managed to miss your comment above until just now.
Somehow I managed to miss your comment above until just now.
While Hooniverse appears to be an open forum there is a core group that only responds to each other. Just another clannish clique .
This displays a remarkable lack of self-awareness on your part.
Be a better commenter.
Yes.
We would love to welcome anyone else who is Clannish — Come on in!
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6e/Clan_Crusader_at_Woburn.JPG/1920px-Clan_Crusader_at_Woburn.JPG
I might have to throw in the classic B230F powered Volvo 740/940 as a recommendation. The sedans at least used to be almost sale-proof especially if they had a few hiccups. Galvanized steel, good heaters, will start in any weather. Put some skinny snow tires tires on 15″ steelies and you’re golden.
I feel like you might have a certain bias…
Hey, I still use the same handle but I sold all of mine so I could buy dumber and less reliable things.